Lan Hub Converter Usb 3 0 Free Download For Mac
. Integrated cable features a small and reversible USB-C connector, and it’s Thunderbolt 3 data port compatible. Multi-platform compatible, with native support in most operating systems including Windows® 10, macOS Sierra (10.12), and Chrome OS™. Backward compatibility lets you save money by connecting your existing USB 2.0 and 1.x devices.
Offers plug-and-play installation, and supports hot-swapping or hot-plugging. Supports Wake-On-LAN, Energy-Efficient Ethernet, jumbo frames, full-duplex flow control, VLAN tagging, and layer 2 priority encoding.
Here’s a must-have accessory for your USB-C™ equipped MacBook Pro, Chromebook™ or laptop. This USB 3.0 hub merges your USB peripheral and RJ45 network connections into a single combination hub.
It gives you two vital connection types, with Ethernet and USB Type-A, which are often missing from modern laptops. Easily connect to your network and peripherals through USB-C This 3-port USB hub features an easy-to-use USB-C connector. USB Type-C connectors are easier to insert than past generations.
They're small and reversible, and you can connect the plug with either side facing up. Merges two vital port types into one stylish hub If your MacBook or laptop is missing the ports you need, this hub can help. USB 3.0 is also known as USB 3.1 Gen 1. The versatile USB 3.0 hub gives you access to not only your USB peripheral devices but also a wired internet connection. It offers a Gigabit Ethernet port, so you can connect to a network in locations where Wi-Fi® is unreliable or unavailable.
The stylish USB hub features an attractive white finish. Rugged, portable, and bus powered The hub features a rugged yet lightweight housing, so there’s no need to sacrifice dependability for portability. Its USB-powered design means you don’t need to carry a separate power adapter, so you can tuck the USB 3.0 hub neatly into your travel bag. This hub is perfect for travel, and it takes up minimal space on a desk, so you can use it in hot-desk or BYOD (Bring Your Own Device) environments.
Built-in cable eliminates aggravation The hub’s built-in USB-C cable makes connections easy, and you don’t need to carry a separate cable to attach the hub to your laptop. The HB30C3A1GEA is backed by a StarTech.com 2-year warranty and free lifetime technical support. It is possible to use some USB hubs without a power supply, however, doing so may prevent the USB hub or certain high-power USB peripherals from operating. It is always recommended to use an included power supply with a USB hub when possible. When a power adapter is not used on a hub that comes with a power adapter, power is drawn from the USB port on the computer and then divided between the ports on the hub.
This reduces the power delivery to individual ports and high-powered USB peripherals, such as external hard drives, may not start. On USB hubs that can use a power adapter, more power can be supplied to USB ports than what is possible with a single USB port.
If your USB peripherals require power adapters, they probably do not require power from the USB port and can be used on a USB hub without a power adapter. With USB peripherals that use power adapters, the USB ports on the hub are only used for data transfer and do not draw power from the hub. USB peripherals that require low power (for example, keyboards and mice) can be used on hubs without a power adapter, in conjunction with other low-power USB peripherals. In this case, power is drawn from the computer's USB port, as described above. USB-C is a type of USB connector that is capable of supporting the following:. Data transfer speeds up to 10Gbps, if you use USB 3.1.
Bi-directional power delivery up to 100W, if both the USB host connection and the device support it. Alternate modes, which deliver different types of data at different speeds. For example, DisplayPort Alternate Mode (DP Alt Mode).
If using Thunderbolt 3 over USB-C, the connection is capable of additional features. For example, Thunderbolt 3 is capable of 40Gbps of total bandwidth. For more information, refer to the following FAQ:. Not all USB-C ports or devices are capable of supporting all of the features listed above, or all of the features at the maximum capabilities.
If you require a specific USB-C feature, your USB host connection, cables, and device must all support the feature that you require. For more information about whether your components support specific USB-C features, refer to the information provided by the manufacturers. Sometimes an on-board network interface card (NIC) conflicts with a new NIC. In these cases it is best to disable the on-board NIC. The best way to disable your on-board NIC is to go into your BIOS and disable it there if possible.
To do this, consult your motherboard manual. You can also disable any NIC in Windows. Here is how you do this: First click Start, or, in Windows 10 and 8, hold down the Windows key and press X. Then click Control Panel. Windows 10. Click Network and Internet. Click Network and Sharing Center.
On the left, click Change adapter settings. Right-click the NIC that you would like to disable and select Disable. Windows 8. Click Network and Sharing Center.
On the left, click Change adapter settings. Right-click the NIC that you would like to disable and select Disable.
Windows 7. Click Network and Internet. Click Network and Sharing Center. On the left, click Change adapter settings.
Right-click the NIC that you would like to disable and select Disable. Windows Vista.
Click Network and Sharing Center. On the left, click Manage network connections. Right-click the NIC that you would like to disable and select Disable. Windows XP. Click Network Connections. Right-click the NIC that you would like to disable and select Disable.
If you are experiencing speed or connectivity issues, it is best to set a specific speed at half or full duplex in your settings. You can set your network adapter to perform at a certain speed, but the device that the adapter is connected to (whether it is a router, switch, or computer) must also be able to perform at the same speed.
Note: You must log in as the local administrator before you continue. To open Device Manager:. Press Windows key + R. Type devmgmt.msc. Open the Networking adapters section. Right-click the network adapter that you want to change and select Properties.
Click the Advanced tab. Scroll down to Speed & Duplex.
By default, it is set to Auto-Negotiate. Select any of the speeds that you see in the list. Click OK and restart your computer.
When you troubleshoot issues with a USB hub, there are some quick tests that you can complete to rule out potential problems. You can test to make sure that the following components are working correctly and are not the source of the issue:. USB A-to-B cable. Computer USB port. USB peripheral(s) To test your setup components, try the following:. Use the USB cable and USB peripheral(s) in another setup to see if the problem is with the components or the setup. Use a different USB cable, USB port, and USB peripheral in your setup to see if the problem persists.
Ideally, you should test a component that you know works in another setup. When you test your cables, it is recommended that you do the following:. Test each cable individually. Use short cables when you are testing.
When you test the hub, make sure that you do the following:. If a power adapter is included, provide power to the USB hub. Attach a USB peripheral. The USB hub will not appear in any hardware listings on your system, but USB devices do appear when they are connected. Install the drivers for the USB peripheral. Install the latest drivers for the USB controller and motherboard chipset. Note: No drivers or software are required for the USB hub to work with your operating system.
The USB hub works independently of software and works with any operating system. When testing your USB peripherals, make sure that you do the following:. If required, attach external power. Confirm that the peripheral works on a standard USB port. If the USB peripheral(s) can be detected on a standard USB port and not on the hub, do the following:. Use a new USB A-to-B cable.
Test your setup using basic USB peripherals, such as a keyboard or mouse. Test using another USB port. If the USB device does not work after your computer has been in extended hibernation, it is likely that Windows has automatically turned off the USB Root hub to save power. The steps below outline how to configure the USB root hub to stay on during hibernation, to prevent this from happening. Windows 10 / 8.
On your keyboard, press the Windows key + X and select Control Panel. Click Hardware and Sound, then click Power Options. Click Change plan settings for the plan you want to change. Click Change advanced power settings. Click the plus sign (+) next to “USB settings” and “USB selective suspend setting” to expand the options and change the setting to Disabled.
Click OK to apply the setting. Note: You may need to disconnect and re-connect your USB device after applying these settings to re-establish the connection. Windows 7 / Vista.
Click the Start button and select Control Panel. Click Hardware and Sound, then click Power Options. Click Change plan settings for the plan you want to change. Click Change advanced power settings.
Click the plus sign (+) next to “USB settings” and “USB selective suspend setting” to expand the options and change the setting to Disabled. Click OK to apply the setting.
Note: You may need to disconnect and re-connect your USB device after applying these settings to re-establish the connection. Windows XP.
On your desktop, right-click the My Computer icon and select Properties. Click the Device Manager tab. Expand Universal Serial Bus controllers by clicking the arrow to the left of it. Right-click the first USB Root Hub device and select Properties.
Click the Power Management tab. Clear the box next to Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power. Click OK to apply the setting. Repeat steps 4-7 for any remaining devices in the Universal Serial Bus Controllers section with “ Root Hub” in the name. Note: You may need to disconnect and re-connect your USB device after applying these settings to re-establish the connection. California Proposition 65 Warning Warning: Cancer and reproductive harm — Safety Measures. If product has an exposed circuit board, do not touch the product under power.
If Class 1 Laser Product. Laser radiation is present when the system is open.
Wiring terminations should not be made with the product and/or electric lines under power. Product installation and/or mounting should be completed by a certified professional as per the local safety and building code guidelines. Cables (including power and charging cables) should be placed and routed to avoid creating electric, tripping or safety hazards.
Click to expand.The driver for one of the supported chipsets might support a gigabit variant in the same device family. All-in-one family drivers are a common pattern with drivers for other OSes, including the BSDs that Darwin borrows from.
It wouldn't be unlike Apple to strip device IDs they hadn't tested though, so chances are admittedly slim. I suspect the reason they haven't shipped a USB 3 NIC of their own is that they expect the thunderbolt port to be open or taken by an Apple display with its own built in NIC. The USB NIC was for pre-thunderbolt Macs. Click to expand.From the Amazon reviews section for this: 'When the latest version of Mac OS X (Mavericks) shipped, this stopped working. The advice from tech support was to re-install the old OS.
They also said it would be several months before a new driver would be available, even though the beta had been out for developers since June.' This is the problem with ANYTHING that requires third party drivers. You basically are a slave to running a version of OS X that supports that driver, and lose use of your device when you upgrade until the driver is updated. Sometimes the driver is never updated and your device becomes a paperweight.
I fully understand the OP's quest to find one that doesn't require a third party driver. Sadly I think OP is SOL on this one.
Click to expand.Nice find, thanks! Searching on the RTL8153 chipset, there are a few other USB NICs with and without USB hubs. Reviews mention driverless support on several of these, although some also complain about the NIC becoming unresponsive after sleep and resume. The cheapest of the no-hub variants is just $12 with Amazon Prime 2 day shipping. For that, I'll give it a shot myself instead of trying to troubleshoot others' sleep/wake experiences (did you use it on a USB 2 port or USB 3? Did you load other bus powered devices on the hub?
I'll report back after I've exercised it a bit. Nice find, thanks! Searching on the RTL8153 chipset, there are a few other USB NICs with and without USB hubs. Reviews mention driverless support on several of these, although some also complain about the NIC becoming unresponsive after sleep and resume. The cheapest of the no-hub variants is just $12 with Amazon Prime 2 day shipping.
For that, I'll give it a shot myself instead of trying to troubleshoot others' sleep/wake experiences (did you use it on a USB 2 port or USB 3? Did you load other bus powered devices on the hub? I'll report back after I've exercised it a bit. Click to expand. I used it on a USB 3 port and got full gigabit Ethernet speeds. I think you'd max out around 200Mbps on USB 2.
I've connected a USB 3 bus powered HD and an externally powered USB 3 HD. Both worked fine. I hadn't notice the sleep/wake issues because I don't usually keep it plugged in all the time. I read that there is an updated driver that solves the problem, and I'm assuming Apple will eventually roll that into an OS update in the future.
Probably won't affect my use case either way, though. Glad you found one with Ethernet only. I was looking for more USB 3 ports, as well, so this one was perfect for me. I also didn't want to use up a thunderbolt port, as I need that for my non-Apple external LCD display. Sorry to resurrect an old thread but curious if any of the previous posters actually got this adapter working without drivers and if so, how? I ordered the same USB3.0 gigabit adapter pictured above and it definitely is not working out of the box with my 2013 rMBP running 10.10.5. After some more digging it appears this one actually reports the model number AX88179 rather than LE88179.
I did find drivers online for OS X but was really hoping for a driverless solution. I use both my TB ports for displays and the last USB3 adapter I had caused issues in OS X constantly. Hope this helps someone: I bought an Anker 'Aluminum 3-Port USB 3.0 and Ethernet Hub' on Amazon.ca for a mid-2012 MBA. The hub/interface died within an hour or two. It was slow as heck (e.g. 11 Mb/s) and running hot, then nothing. I returned it and bought another thinking it did what I wanted and the Anker seemed to have as good a reputation as all the other alternatives, none of which had the same hub options that I wanted.
Lan Hub Converter Usb 3 0 Free Download For Mac
I received the second one and it worked much better in terms of speed but it was still running pretty warm. The pic below is from my FLIR One camera attachment. The hub temp is 35+ C, which is about the same as the back of the keyboard area on the MBA. In comparison, the USB-coax SPDIF adapter in front of it runs much cooler, not even warm to the touch. (Slick pic, eh?) However, the hub did have problems with reconnecting after power shutdowns. It would appear to be connected under the listing of USB devices in System Information/System Report, showing up as 'USB 10/100/1000 LAN', but under System Preferences/Network, it would show up in the list of devices on the LHS but it would have the annoying status of not being connected or not responding (sorry, I forget the exact wording). The solution: I went to the Anker.com/Support and found the 'Download List' for the hub.
I downloaded the 'Upgrade Patch (Mac OS 10.10)' and installed it (checking all the default boxes), and now everything seems to be fine. I can sleep and reboot the MBA and the ethernet connection is alive and well upon awakening. Note: For some strange reason, I used my PC to look for a driver for my MBA and finding it was simple. I just copied and pasted the name 'Aluminum 3-Port USB 3.0 and Ethernet Hub' from another Anker web page into the search field on the Support page and the Download List appeared under the 'Downloads & Drivers' label. However, this didn't work on my MBA, which was very annoying. Instead, the page would only show a list of unrelated audio devices (e.g. Premium Stereo Bluetooth Speaker) but by hitting the 'LOAD MORE' (device pic) button maybe 9 times (!), the hub eventually showed up in the list.
Clicking on the hub pic brought up the same 'Download List' that I had so easily found on my PC. I wasn't sure if I was supposed to download the patch that I did use or the last one in the list (i.e. 'MAC OS 10.6 to 10.11') but since my MBA has Yosemite 10.10.5, I figured I'd give the patch for 10.10 a shot. So far, so good.